Danube River Cruising

The new company seeks to capitalise on the growing popularity of rail travel in general and to specialise in particular in the sort of Orient Express-style private train experiences that are appealing to an ever increasing number of discerning travellers.

From next year, when it comes into full service, the Danube Express will offer exotic-sounding journeys such as the Bosporus Voyager (Budapest to Istanbul via Novi Sad and Sofia), the Transylvanian (deep into Dracula country), the Bohemian (Prague, Karlovy Vary and Vienna) and the Polish Explorer (Berlin to Budapest via Gdansk, Krakow and Zakopane).

Will it, indeed? Last week I was among a small group of British journalists invited to find out on a test run between Berlin and Budapest.

First impressions were positive: the gleaming carriages in navy blue and cream awaiting us at Schönefeld station in Berlin had a certain elegance and at the same time looked solid and dependable: not altogether surprising given that in a previous (Communist era) life many had been in active service as part of the official train of the Hungarian government. The “deluxe” carriages, revamped at a cost of £500,000 a piece, had previously been used by the Hungarian postal services. The central dining and lounge cars, for some time in service with MÀV Nosztalgia, were originally built in Bautzen, East Germany, in the 1980s. The carriages beyond them, containing the more basic “classic” accommodation, were of 1950s’ vintage.

It was a rich mixture of styles and eras with an undeniable Hungarian feel, underlined by the characters who welcomed us on board: András, Attila, Györgyi and Apollo (the late-night lounge-car piano player).

The food served on the train was a fairly rich mixture too — classic central European fare including sweet-and-sour soup, goose leg with mashed potato and braised red cabbage and Hortobágy pancake (a Hungarian speciality). Hearty rather than haute cuisine.

In the convivial setting of the dining car (and over several glasses of some very drinkable Hungarian reds and whites), conversation flowed, new friendships were forged (one of the great pleasures of travelling in this way), and, glancing out of the window, we enjoyed views of the gentle, green pastures of Brandenburg, and later of the spectacular “Saxon Switzerland”.

Unlike some trains in this category, the Danube Express does not aim to be overly formal. There is no specific dress code in the dining car and, while smart, the fixtures, fittings and furnishings are neither redolent of a bygone aristocratic age nor an expression of 21st-century designer chic. It’s all very comfortable, but couldn’t be said to be at the cutting edge of style.

Many passengers will find the lack of formality refreshing. On a journey I undertook last year on a train where jacket and tie for men and evening dress for women were obligatory for dinner, some protested (and there were even one or two rebels who refused to wear ties).

What many train enthusiasts, particularly those of a certain age, will find appealing on the Danube Express are the new deluxe cabins, designed by Trinder himself.

The cabins are spacious — large enough to fit two beds in an L-shape at ground level. They also each contain a modern en suite bathroom with shower (good water pressure), sink and lavatory. Of course there is a premium to be paid for such comfort (see “Danube Express basics” below), but for travellers not keen on the idea of clambering up into a top bunk or wandering down the corridor to wash, they will be very welcome. Others have the considerably cheaper option of a classic cabin (either with or without air conditioning). These cabins, modernised to a reasonable but not exceptional standard, offer bunk beds, private sinks and showers along the corridor (though one of the women on board felt the shower room décor left a lot to be desired).

The cabins at this end of the train have a different feel, and arguably more charm. They were built in the 1950s and saw active service on behalf of the Hungarian government. They have a much older, more lived-in feel; you sense history in them. For those really wanting to touch the region’s past, there’s even a VIP cabin used, I was told, by Hungary’s former communist leader János Kádár (though the journalist who slept in it reported that the cabin’s modest-sized double bed tilted rather uncomfortably).

2009 Programme

We will offer both fully escorted holidays by rail or air from London and Danube Express journeys only that independent travellers can add to as they wish. With destinations as diverse as Dresden and Cracow, Transylvania and the Tatra Mountains and journeys ranging from three days to the iconic London to Istanbul eleven day holiday, there is something for everyone.

• Budapest – Kosice – Prague – Carlsbad – Dresden – Berlin

• Berlin – Gdansk – Malbork – Crakow – Zakopane – Kosice – Budapest

• Brussels – Carlsbad – Prague – Vienna – Budapest with option to continue to Istanbul

The above will be available as journey only or as part of an inclusive holiday from London by Eurostar and1st Class Rail without flying.

Danube Express basics

• A three-day journey between Budapest and Berlin on the Danube Express (01462 441400, www.danube-express.com) costs from £1,150 per person, based on two sharing a classic two-berth compartment, including two nights’ full board with wine, beer and soft drinks plus sightseeing. In a deluxe compartment with en suite facilities the cost is £1,890 pp.

• This “Central European” journey is also available as part of a 12-day escorted holiday by Eurostar with first-class rail from London from £2,990 pp sharing, including two nights’ half board in Nuremberg, four nights’ half board in Budapest, two nights’ full board on the Danube Express and three nights’ half board in Berlin, a full sightseeing programme, transfers and the services of a tour manager.

• When not in service the Danube Express is at the Hungarian Railway Museum, a must for all rail enthusiasts when visiting Budapest. Further details: 0036 1 238 0558; www.mavnosztalgia.hu.